For those who like a scroll saw, you know how boring it is to cut a small piece of the scroll saw pattern. After years of wear [sometimes even weeks], the holes in the rolling saw table are worn and enlarged by repeated friction of the blades. This situation is usually not caused by user error, but by what I call "the nature of the beast." In my more than 13 years of rolling sawing, I rarely encountered a rolling saw table that didn't have this type of wear very quickly after initial use.
In most cases, this does not affect production, but when cutting sometimes requires small, delicate parts for internal or splitting, it can lead to a lack of support and the problem of losing parts when cutting. To correct this problem, many reels make so-called "zero gap plates." For their saws. The purpose of the zero-gap plate is to provide better support for small and delicate parts and to avoid losing them in the sawdust pile below.
There are several ways to add this add-on to your saw. I will focus on the easiest and fastest [though temporary] way to make this plate. This is a great quick solution. For those who don't need or want a more permanent type or don't want to use it all the time, they can be installed in less than five minutes.
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- First, make sure your rolling saw table is clean. Spray it with WD-40 and then use some fine sandpaper to clean any adhesive or debris that may be collected on it.
- After sanding, wipe the WD-40 with a paper towel. This will make the surface smooth and greasy. You now need to use Windex or other window cleaners or alcohol to remove oily residues. You want the table to be as clean and free of grease as possible.
- Next, take an empty two-liter pop bottle and cut a rounded rectangle from the plastic. The rectangle should be about 3 inches square and rounded.
- Use your drill press and a small section [about 1/16 inch] to drill a small hole in the center of the plastic part.
- Go to the rolling saw and place the small blade into the knife holder. Loosen the top of the blade and pass the plastic piece with the curved side facing down.
- Reinstall the blade and tighten the tension.
- Square the plastic and use 2" clear wrap tape to stick the plate in place. Place four stripes - two perpendicular to the sides of the blade, two horizontally at the front and back of the blade. Be careful, otherwise don't leave any wrinkles on the tape that can affect the cut.
- You have it! A simple, effective and fast zero clearance rolling saw table!
I found this type of plate to be especially suitable for dirty segmentation and intarsia scroll saw blades with very small fragments. After several projects, the hole does start to get bigger, and sometimes the tape is slightly rolled up at the edge after use. If this happens, I just need to take a sharp scraper and trim the loose edges of the tape. After a while, I changed the plate and cleaned my table as described above.
Even though I need to change the plates regularly, I still use this method instead of the more permanent method, because even on popular wooden cover boards, the holes will inevitably show signs of wear and become larger. There is also a piece of wood that you lift the thickness of the wood on the table, which may affect the performance of the anti-tooth blade I often use.
Many people use this method to use old credit cards or other plastics, but I found them to be a bit thicker than the popular plastic bottles, forming a ridge that can cause problems when feeding delicate work. I kept some blank licenses. I saw the supply drawer on my reel because I cut out four to eight from an abandoned pop bottle at a time for a while. I hope you try this method and it suits you. If you prefer, you can download an article on my website that contains step-by-step images of the process.
Orignal From: Rolling saw tips and tricks - making a "zero clearance" table
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