This article is a continuation of the basic church banner making process. Here, I will share details on how to apply the prepared design permanently to the banner background without sewing. As you remembered in the previous article, your pattern is used to track and tailor your designs, which you can use for fusible cross-ironing on the back.
First, you need a flat, clean surface to work, preferably a large enough surface to fit your banner size. You need to make the surface "ironed friendly". This means you can place a large ironing pad or large towel on the surface so you can safely iron it without damaging the surface area. Tip: Make sure there are no debris or wet spots or any other foreign objects in the area. I recommend keeping all food and drinks completely. Nothing is more disappointing than a beautiful, almost finished banner destroyed by wet spaces or greasy spots of food!
You also need a straight edge ruler or bar, a few straight needles, iron, transparent paper [or drawing paper], and fabric coatings in squeeze bottles, such as tulip fabric paint.
Put your letters and designs on the background layout that you think is best, and provide a pleasing balanced composition. In order to arrange the words, I use a bar and a straight pin. I measured the distance from the top of the banner to the distance I wanted from
The bottom of the letter from
The first line of the word / s that appears. I made the same measurements on the left and right sides and marked each one with a straight pin. Now I put the yard stick under the two pins so that it can be placed directly under each pin to form a straight line to place my letters. Strip the paper from each letter [flip from the iron] and place each letter so that the bottom of the letter rests against the top edge of the yard pole. Use your eyes to separate your letters/words to make them look balanced. If you have multiple lines of words, use the same measures to the left and right to separate the lines to form a line of the next line of words.
I like to pin each letter with the tip of the heated iron to make sure that it doesn't accidentally move when I remove the bar and process the next line of words. Once you have the design and letters you want, it's time to figure them out.
Do not iron directly on the fabric. Use a piece of paper, preferably transparent paper. I used the remaining large piece of transmissive paper and moved the glue side to the large banner pattern I used to work on. If you don't have one, I suggest you draft paper that you can buy from your office or art store. These tablets are large enough to work well and have enough transparency to let you see the pattern below when ironing. Carefully place the paper on the laid pattern and then iron them at medium/high temperatures [test it first to make sure your iron is not too hot] and move the iron onto the design letters until they blend into the banner background. Moving your iron will not leave iron dents on the banner. The fusion takes only a minute or so. Remove the paper and move it to the next area until each part is fully fused.
Tip: If the letter is shifted while ironing, you can take remedial action. Let the material cool and try to peel off the letter. If it is not easy to peel off, you can use a wet cotton swab or cloth to reduce the letters or designs that need to be removed. Once wet, the fusible glue will loosen, so it can easily peel off and you can reapply it to the correct position. Try not to over-suppress, otherwise you may leave a watermark on the banner background.
Once you iron everything together, you can now make them permanent. I like to use tulip gold glitter three-dimensional fabric paint. I carefully squeezed and dragged the tips along the edges of all the letters and designs to create a uniform, small, smooth line of paint that touches the edges of the letters/design shapes and blends into the banner background. This way you can practice the stitches without the need to sew the stitches and the speed of the tip along the edges. Sometimes the paint will have bubbles or air snoring, which you can't foresee. The Glitter paint type is more tolerant than other colors because it has a clear foundation. When a snoring occurs, you can gently wipe off the excess snoring. So for beginners, use from
flash from
Tulip fabric paint. With experience, you will be able to better control the paint bead line and "snoring". When you become an expert, try using the Tulip Slick color paint to get different effects. Practice first.
For big banners with big letters, you can still get rid of it without having to sew. In this case, you can use fabric glue, such as Aleene's fabric glue and a narrow side that fits each letter. It is best to use narrow trims with bending capabilities, such as woven trim or single-line sequin trim. First use a thin line of glue to outline one letter at a time. Then carefully glue the trim to the glue, so that the trim covers the edges of the letters and overlaps to touch the banner background. When you reach a sharp corner, hold the decoration firmly and create a corner. For some decorations, you may need to use a small amount of hot glue to fix the sharp corners. Then continue to use the fabric glue. If using hot glue, be sure to remove all glue "strings" because "strings" may be ironed onto your banner and ruin it later.
You have the basics of how to make banners for churches. You've read how to find inspiration for your design; how to implement your ideas into patterns and how to move them to the structure. You also learned how to make a banner background. Now you know how to apply these letters and designs permanently to your background. In future articles, I will share more advanced technologies. The next article will discuss how to decorate your banner with sparkling and rich ways.
Orignal From: Tips for making church flags: the permanent application process for your design/letter
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